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Computer CPU Temp

Posted By Alley 12 Years Ago
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Alley
Alley
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Good news....found old reliable computer guy doing freelance work until he finds a full time job. He is going to come by and look at the puter either today if he has time or Thurs.

Regarding the 3 chassis fans....I don't know about that. I googled and it says sometimes the fans are not connected to the motherboard, which is why they cannot be monitored but I really don't have a clue what I am talking about.

and Armstrong, it is a gaming computer and it has an overclocking button which I have never pushed cause I don't really know what it does.

Alley



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Hi Alley...
The screen shot youve displayed initially could display three things.

1. That the Chassis fans are not connected.
Do you HAVE three chassis fans? This software is for serious gamers who also use Rog's Overclocking software amongst other fine tuners that make PU's scream for mercy.

2. That the Chassis fans (I presume one piddly one normally less than useless and one behind the transformer. ) are not machine spec and so do not have the chipsets in them to report their temps and speeds to the software.

3. They may need enabling. What happens when you click on the tick boxes and what happens when you move ther sliders. Here the fans whirr up.

This is my old machine. I say old, its spec is still beefy and its used still despite its age of five years. It guts are updated and in total there are 6 fans in this. Two in the nVidea 360, one in the tranny, one on the back and one underneath the nVidea with one piggybacking the cpu as always.

Because the fans are not COMPAQ Spec. They dont report to the onboard system monitor.
But they still work. The one on the back beeps if it slows.

Also the side of this puter was open for two months. No fryups.
Here's a screen grab of the CPU heat monitoring software we use here.
As you can see, even with iCLone in the BG running a strenuous project file and being winged about, still no overheat.

Because???????????
We're moving air.  :hehe::P

This software is extremely thorough and free.
A you can see, cool reports.

DOWN LOAD IT HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK, my summary of what you're displaying is a top end CPU and GPU monitor and I would say the machine you have worked perfectly well when the original installer put it in place.

That being wrong, then the Graphics accellerator you're using is already straining your transformer and potentially overheating because it doesnt have enough surge to cater for the draw on the fans as they speed up as iClone demands more from  them.

Solution....
Previous posts. :w00t:

Enable the fans if they're even there? Wang them right up!
Buy that Enermax and this will all fade. You are NOT pulling enough air through the system.
Show us a photo of the box's insides. You can do it. You can also plug in a fan.

It should be a standard procedure anyway to beef up the cooling systems on any ne wcomputer and thankfully it costs nothing.
This new Dell I told the designer to stick in the heaviest duty fans he had. I paid another £43 for the transformer upgrade to boot that but it paid off. I hear the fans cut in and whine like spaceships, but no temp increase.

You need a decent fan sweetheart, really. Its just air.  :crying:
I've got a redundant one if you want it.
Then you'll be back in action.

 



colour
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Alley

Well - IMO, your Screenshot indicates that your Chassis Fans aren't even connected, in addition to the CPU Heatsink Fan running at low rpm.

My Asus Probe gives a warning re; my PSU Fan not being connected. But that's for reason already Posted. I don't need it. I would have thought you should also get a warning re; the 3 Chassis Fans.

PC Chassis Fans can sometimes ship disconnected from the MOBO or even not installed, because they can become loose during transit & need to be Connected/Installed by the purchaser. 

Ticking the Chassis Fans Alert Boxes & the Apply Button, might give a warning that they aren't connected.

Did you collect the PC from Bestbuy or was it delivered?

There's an rpm slider that can be dragged to the right from the Default 600rpm. However, IMO this just increases the minimum rpm. The Maximum is controlled by the MOBO relative to the CPU Temperature. The rpm will fluctuate rapidly, to maintain a constant CPU temperature.

IMO, there's nothing you can do apart from checking the Chassis Fans connections. I don't recommend you doing that, if you're not used to working with a PC's component parts.

IMO, you should present the problem to Bestbuy.

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Alley
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Hi colour -

This is a purchased computer.  The computer guy I dealt with for years went out of business. :crying:

CPU fan is currently running at 858 using CT 6 and iclone back and forth with simple project.  Tem of cpu is 48.  And as soon as complicated project is opened, temp want to hit 70 or higher, but rpm of fan only goes to about 1100.

I bought this one from Best Buy....I do have a three year extended warranty on parts.  I phoned ASUS and got reps both times that seemed to know very little about computers.  Geek Squad don't answer their phone of course.:w00t:

Here is a pic of some utility showing temp/fan speed, etc.   It has a slider bar which I move, but nothing happened.

Is there somewhere to change fan speed?



Alley




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Alley

Asus MOBOs have patented MOBO Heatsink cooling. Obviating the requirement for an additional MOBO Fan.

Adding more fans = increasing power requirements. Your Power Supply may be insufficient for that.

Removing the side of the PC Case isn't recommended. Dust sticks to the circuit boards, becoming heated & has been known to fry them. So has overclocking the CPU.

My Coolermaster sileo silent 500 PC Case is specifically designed to give maximum component cooling with minimum number of fans. I have 2 very large Case Fans front & back. The PSU Fan isn't connected, since there's no need for it.

My CPU is cooled via a Triple Copper Heatpipe Heatsink with a very large Fan, that sits on the side of the heatsink. Not the top. 

The Front Case Fan draws-in Cool air. The Heatsink Fan draws the hot air towards the Back Case Fan which expels it. There's no need for additional Fans.

At 1100 RPM, your CPU Heatsink Fan looks to be running too slow for a CPU Temperature of over 70C. See My Asus Probe Screenshot. The 600 rpm Default is the minimum speed. IMO you need to check the CPU Heatsink Fan speeds against CPU Temperature over a short period of time. I would expect it to fluctuate upto a maximum of eg; 5,000 rpm at those temperatures. If it doesn't, maybe the Fan speed is the cause of the CPU overheating? 

I think your PCs are Custom built? If I were you, I'd pose the problem to the builder, before you mess-up a new PC.

   

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Postings by others made me realize that cooling is indeed an important issue that I didn't mention. I assume you bought your computer, rather than building your own or have one built.

The reason I ask is that in my experience the cooling of the CPU on brand-name PCs is often inadequate simply because it's badly designed. My of my previous computers was an HP with heating problems; the remedy was to remove the CPU fan, scrape off the goo that they had used as heat-conducting paste, and replace it something like Artic Silver. The power supply was also inadequate. This wasn't a cheap PC either, but after that experience I started to build my own.

BTW, although it is customary to install all programs on the system (C) drive, it is not absolutely necessary. What you could consider is having the Iclone temp directory on the SSD; someone posted recently that it helped with stability issues.


https://forum.reallusion.com/uploads/images/436b0ffd-1242-44d6-a876-d631.jpg

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Its not an nVidea setting. Its hot air. Thats all.
My previous device, as soon as I installed v.5 Iclone, started cooking.

Open the side and I reccommend the Enermax T.b. Silence Uctb12. I could only find this one. Replace your main fan with it. OR, if like my machine it has a dormant SECOND fan vent (for the eventuality that the puter user will one day NEED that extra air flow.....) stick it there as an additional fan to the main transformer fan.

Again, dont worry about size issues, sometimes theyre not exact, just make sure it sits tight over the outlet vent and make sure your inlets arent full of cat hairs. :P I set mine in place with silicone. This also buffered what tiny noise it DID make into nothing.  

If you buy a second fan on top of this main fan replacement for internal setup like a PCI slot fan, then I would reccommend you start looking at transformer upgrades as well which is considerably more tricky because each fan needs to be fed. 



Alley
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Hi everyone,

Thanks for the responses.

@ Colour.....problem with SSD is they are too small to fit all my programs. Maybe at some point I will buy a larger one but they are so expensive..

@ KosmasAlesiadis......thank you for confirming that this happens to you too and that it's the latest update - it reassures me that the computer itself is not defective.

@ Armstrong ....I figured I needed another fan. It's a pretty powerful video card and that momentary message mentioning it made me wonder if it's contributing..I think a new or additional fan is what is required for sure so I will do that. I did think of removing the side of the computer also but wasn't sure that would do anything, so thanks for that.

I did update the video drivers to see if that would do anything, but it didn't. There is a function with the ASUS computer that allows you to update BIOS from the internet but I have not tried that....I have heard messing with BIOS can sometimes screw things up but maybe it would have no bearing anyway.

Lastly....could it be any sort of nvidea setting....perhaps manually telling the video card how to manage iClone?

Again....thanks for all your help! :)

Alley



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71-121 MPM High performace cooler fan.
Dont be scared to plug one in and replace the existing one. Its simple and dont worry if the vent hole isnt as big as the fan circumference. Air moves. Does no harm. Here makes mine like a fridge.

$30:00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enermax-T-b-silence-Uctb12-Cooling-Fan-1-X-120-Mm-900-Rpm-1-X-Twister-Bearing-/330923450178?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item4d0c931f42

Until one of these comes through take the side off your computer. A bit of dust wont do any harm. Dust has to be cleared. Face a desk fan at the open box and see what happens. Its just air. Not rocket science.  :P



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Hi Alley...

I had the identical problem with my old computer. As soon as iClone started running the nVidea cpu fans (x2) started running high. THis is because you're working with extortionately advanced volumes of math for the GPU and CPU and they have to keep cool because voltage is increased when theyre "thinking."

An easy way to kill this issue (And incidentally my cpu and gpu ran at about 88 degrees constantly and sounded like a space ship landing / the noise you hear are the fans cutting in doing what theyre there for.) is to buy a simple additional fan for your machine. Iclone 5 made me buy one or two.

Here's one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-PC-Computer-Case-Cooling-System-PCI-Slot-Video-Card-Slot-Cooler-Fan-PC-Mac-/221192901728?pt=US_Hard_Drive_Cooling&hash=item33801fd460

And heres another.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-Computer-Slim-Case-Cooling-System-Exhaust-PCI-Slot-Fan-Blower-Cooler-80mm-/390606084131?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item5af1efd823

Plug them into one of the many vacant plug sockets in the puter and you dont even need to slot them in, I simply laid tweo on top of each other and on top of the nVidea and all it does is push about 50 to 100 cubic feet of air  per minute through the system.


I placed mine OVER the exhaust vent of the nVidea SUCKING the air up accelerating it.
Sorted it out instantly.

Another oddity that cured the over heating issue was to take the side panel off the whole puter.

This goes against the principle of internally controlled air flow but it works because you're not recycling heated air over and over. Instead it simply rises out. Try it.

REMEMBER....
Your Graphics card is blowing air OUT at about 80 degrees....
The BOX itself holds this and then the fans circulate the preheated air and blow it over the components AGAIN because the main box cannot extract the volume of air faster than its being heated.
It's that simple. 
Hotter and hotter and hotter. On a hot day this is crisis level.

Take the side off and watch what happens until one of these comes through the post. I have one here if you want it.

I also bought a rear fan that has "Batwing" blades apparently !!! but it silently shunted apprximately 300 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) OUT of the box.

p.s. You wont need a transformer upgrade if you add one of the listed fans above. Just FYI.




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