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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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Hi all! I just downloaded the EX version of iClone4 and have been playing with it for a couple of days...the full Pro version with tons of bonus packs is totally on my wishlist! I haven't had this much fun in a long time...:) But I have a couple of questions about animation, since I'm totally new to it.
How can you create an animation that changes scenes? Is there a way to build multiple "sets" and then switch cameras? I'm not really sure how to ask this, but can you set borders or boundaries to one set so it doesn't extend forever (like if you use a terrain template)? Should you not use a terrain if you do this? I think I understand the whole camera switcher pretty well, so it's just a matter of having the different sets to go to.
Also, what is the best way to build up realistic looking scene elements, like rocks and such? Is there a tool within iClone to do that, or would it be better to go through SketchUp and then import it? What about making small props for a character to hold, like swords?
One last question...I tried to create new clothes with CloneCloth, but the lower template seemed to be cut off somewhere in the midcalf region...so when I imported the design, it stretched it out and left holes right around his knees. It was kind of weird. Am I doing something wrong?
I'm so excited about this program...I really want to make a trailer for a story I wrote and have it look at least decently cool. ;)
Thanks in advance!
~Luth
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By thebiz.movies - 17 Years Ago
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Hi Luth,
I think a lot of people just shoot scenes seperately, render them out and then do a lot of the editing in 3rd party software (such as Vegas, Magix or even the free Windows Movie Maker that comes with windows). This allows for shorter easier renders and more abilities inherant in the video editing software such as transitions and the like. So for a small 5 minute movie I might have 10-15 "mini" projects that I am working on. This allows me to concentrate on the little things instead of worrying about the final big thing till the end (if that makes any sense).
Having said that I think that Sprog movie and some others were fully rendered in a single project.
Regarding props, some people use Sketchup or other sources made available through 3dExchange (a must in my opinion) while others use the 3d prop objects available in Iclone to very good effect. As far as a sword, you could use anything (3d object, sketchup prop) and just attach the object to the characters hand.
Hope that helps a bit.
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By shygirl - 17 Years Ago
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Hi Luthien, Welcome to the Forum and thewonderful world of iClone Shy :)
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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luthien39 (11/2/2009) Hi all! I just downloaded the EX version of iClone4 and have been playing with it for a couple of days...the full Pro version with tons of bonus packs is totally on my wishlist! I haven't had this much fun in a long time...:) But I have a couple of questions about animation, since I'm totally new to it.
How can you create an animation that changes scenes? Is there a way to build multiple "sets" and then switch cameras? I'm not really sure how to ask this, but can you set borders or boundaries to one set so it doesn't extend forever (like if you use a terrain template)? Should you not use a terrain if you do this? I think I understand the whole camera switcher pretty well, so it's just a matter of having the different sets to go to.
Also, what is the best way to build up realistic looking scene elements, like rocks and such? Is there a tool within iClone to do that, or would it be better to go through SketchUp and then import it? What about making small props for a character to hold, like swords?
One last question...I tried to create new clothes with CloneCloth, but the lower template seemed to be cut off somewhere in the midcalf region...so when I imported the design, it stretched it out and left holes right around his knees. It was kind of weird. Am I doing something wrong?
I'm so excited about this program...I really want to make a trailer for a story I wrote and have it look at least decently cool. ;)
Thanks in advance!
~Luth
Hi Luth, what thebiz.movies said is excellent advice. Keep your sets separated on a project per set basis. This will give you greater flexibility with memory, lighting, and bug deterrrent. If one shot fails at least you still have the others safe. Imagine having a ten minute shot finished and not being able to load it again. Ouch, believe me it hurts. Also, always save in steps. If you have a city shot called "city", called it city001, city002, etc. If you are running out of room on the harddrive, start deleting early versions but first make sure you can unload and reload your latest ones. As far as prop, 3d warehouse and 3d exchange is an excellent source, and if you cant find something there are plenty of content stores around.
good luck and welcome to the world of iclone.
Stuckon3d
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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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Hi all! Thank you all so much for the welcome and the great advice! I hadn't thought about the dangers and other problems of having all the scenes in one file...that makes so much sense, and I'm so glad you guys mentioned it! Also about saving in steps...I do that with my writing, so it makes a lot of sense to do it for this too!
I successfully created a sword in Sketchup and got it into IC and attached to my character's hand! I'm really excited about that sword. ;) Now if I could only figure out how to make it look shiny or reflective like a real sword...I tried changing the reflectivity but it didn't seem to do anything.
I just thought of another question...and now I've already forgotten. Oh well. OH! Is it possible to make spheres in SketchUp? I was trying to figure out a way and couldn't really see any tool that would make it work.
Thanks again!
~Luth
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By safegaard - 17 Years Ago
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Hi Luth Welcome to the forum. My motto is: Better save than sorry :)
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By thebiz.movies - 17 Years Ago
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You use the "follow me" tool in sketchup. Check out this tutorial here. http://sketchup.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=39024
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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If that tutorial is too complicated or your are not getting what you want you can also go the 3d warehouse and do a search for primitive shapes and you will find plenty of those. Howecer, why do you need to make a sphere in sketchup, you do know that you have one inside iclone already right? under props/3d blocks i believe? ;)
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By DELETED2 - 17 Years Ago
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Hello Luthien, I LIKE your enthusiasm. And I like your question. That's a nice demand for a change. Firstly I wanted to see the graphics youre using for the lower clothing. That would be a help. originals and the edited perhaps. Secondly, what editing software do you use for cutting iClone's output? Also saving your projects SAVE every ten minutes. have a save set of scenesave1.ext and up to scenesave10.ext file names and just keep rolling through one to ten one to ten one to ten and if something in the scene glitches, youre always nine files in credit with only ten minutes work lost. Patronising suggestion, but you'll kick your butt when you forget. :P Regarding Sets and multiple sets in one scene, I HAVE done this. But as follows. I make forest or woodland scenes. I make the North, South, East and West view totally different and simply save this as a template if you liike. Then I add in whatever I need and shoot at any angle I feel comfortable with. I LOVE Biosphere to bits. And time issues warrant GOOD Forestry work like in real life. Its the same. Compositionally panable and architecturally diverse means its a one set serves many. So your suggestion is as practical as you intended, just not QUITE the way you wished. (I've got to add further, as soon as you start using solid light techniques and colour / seasonal hue variations, one landset might just as well serve as fifty, I'm not kidding!) Anyway... All the other animators here are right as usual. I'm just doing a second hand fleshout. :P Greetings and I look forwards to your theories. Armstrong.
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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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Ahhh, you guys are great! Thanks again for the insight and tips.
As re: the sphere, I actually first thought of it as I was designing my sword...I was thinking something spherical (or 3D polygon or something) would be a nice pommel nut, but couldn't figure it out. So I left it bare. It also came up as I was thinking about constructing composite sets for IC, like inside a castle or something. Would it work better to have a whole model with most of the props set inside, or to add in those elements within iClone? If the first, knowing how to make 3D spheres and polygons could be useful. Thanks for the link to the tutorial...I'll check it out!
Armstrong: thanks! It's hard not to be enthusiastic! :D
For the clothes, I was using a picture of a guy wearing medieval pants I found online: http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/mg-2507.jpg They look kind of nice and generic, and I figured I could use the same image for front and back (it would look about the same). I edited the picture a bit so the legs aren't as spread, to make it map to the IC image better. As to the second question, pardon the newbieness of the question, but do you mean what image editing software am I using? I was just using Paint Shop (forget what version). But when I clicked "launch" it came up with a model of what look like very short legs.
But what's even WEIRDER is that when I first was testing my design out, I put them on the Dylan CloneCloth model, and it came up with holes at the knees. Just now, I went and checked them on Trey (who was the actor I was using) and they worked! :ermm: So, I don't know what was going on there...very weird.
The forest idea is awesome. That makes a lot of sense too. I *really* want to get Biosphere...it looks amazing!
Thanks again, all!
~Luth
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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The forest idea is awesome. That makes a lot of sense too. I *really* want to get Biosphere...it looks amazing!
Thanks again, all!
~Luth
Hi Luth, as awesome as it may sound, I strongly recommend against it. Do your set-dressing to tailor whatever your camera will be able to see and nothing more. Having 4 forest sets in the same project is a waist of resources. All it will do is slow your system down. Specially with trees on a scene. Unless you are doing a 360 camera move, and even then i would just make a project just for that camera move and then I would optimize the scene again to have only what the camera will be able to see on the following shot. Remember to keep things simple but make it look complicated. You will need all the memory you can get because your are not only dealing with sets but dont forget that you have characters and motions that you need to add to your scene as well and that takes a lot of ram too. This is just some humble adviced from a person that works in the world of 3d for a living. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck in your project.
Stuckon3d
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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks for the tip, stuckon3d! I think I get what you are saying...I think. So, if I had a spectacular 360 tree shot for one part of a scene, but for the rest it wasn't necessary, I would design a special set for just that shot, and then have a simpler set for the rest of the scene? Is there a way to make sure of continuity? Is that what you mean by optimizing the scene? (sorry...I know I have a lot of questions and don't really know what I'm talking about! :blush: )
~Luth
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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luthien39 (11/4/2009) Thanks for the tip, stuckon3d! I think I get what you are saying...I think. So, if I had a spectacular 360 tree shot for one part of a scene, but for the rest it wasn't necessary, I would design a special set for just that shot, and then have a simpler set for the rest of the scene? Is there a way to make sure of continuity? Is that what you mean by optimizing the scene? (sorry...I know I have a lot of questions and don't really know what I'm talking about! :blush: )
~Luth
Hey Luth, by optimizing i mean removing any object from the scene that is not in view of the camera, for example, any items behind a wall that the camera cant see, or items behind the camera. If for some reason you have items that are not in view of the camera but you see their shadows, you could created a simpler prop with primitives to recreate that shadow without take alot of memory. Also, you could reduce the size of the texture for objects that are far away in the distance. Little things like this will make your scenes less heavy and more enjoyable to work with. As fas as continuity.. you need to put items that are recognizable in one set and allow the viewer to see them in another with out having to have both set on the same project. You can also save your lighting from one set and reuse it in another. These are just a few tricks of many, many things you can do.
I hope this helped, good luck,
Stuckon3d :)
PS: I would recommend for you to sign up to the free webclass im giving next sat 14 th. I believe it will be a very beneficial and it will help you create things faster. The images i have in my gallery, I can create them usually in 4 hours or less. Why? because i know how to navigate in iclone really well.
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By DELETED2 - 17 Years Ago
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stuckon3d (11/3/2009)Hi Luth, as awesome as it may sound, I strongly recommend against it. Do your set-dressing to tailor whatever your camera will be able to see and nothing more. Having 4 forest sets in the same project is a waist of resources. Stuckon3d No, don't misinterpret. This is simply one set. Every set has a North South East and West viewpoint / face. Utilise your sets in such a fashion that, should you DO outside work, dress the set accordingly but remember that it may not always be worthwhile dressing behind identically like what's in front of the camera. Anyway, your system will tell you when you've reached your maximum. Just thought I'd correct that misinterpretation a bit. I'd like to see what you come up with anyway. Set Stills and theories on them to me are as inspiring as the final outcome. It's all part of the same process, and to me, inspiring and an intrigue to hear the concepts of others. Armstrong.
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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Armstrong (11/4/2009)
stuckon3d (11/3/2009)Hi Luth, as awesome as it may sound, I strongly recommend against it. Do your set-dressing to tailor whatever your camera will be able to see and nothing more. Having 4 forest sets in the same project is a waist of resources. Stuckon3d No, don't misinterpret. This is simply one set. Every set has a North South East and West viewpoint / face. Utilise your sets in such a fashion that, should you DO outside work, dress the set accordingly but remember that it may not always be worthwhile dressing behind identically like what's in front of the camera. Anyway, your system will tell you when you've reached your maximum. Just thought I'd correct that misinterpretation a bit. I'd like to see what you come up with anyway. Set Stills andtheories on themto me are as inspiring as the final outcome. It's all part of the same process, and to me, inspiring and an intrigue to hear the concepts of others. Armstrong.
Dear Armstrong, Well this was bound to happen sooner or later so lets have an Adult conversation between two artists and share our points of view, Im sure this will be very constructive and beneficial for everyone.
1) So how exactly did i misinterpret what you said. You said and i quote:
"Regarding Sets and multiple sets in one scene, I HAVE done this. But as follows. I make forest or woodland scenes. I make the North, South, East and West view totally different and simply save this as a template if you liike."
You said it yourself that you have done this. So how did i misinterpret this? And even if you meant that you created a full forest and put 4 cameras in the center of the forest, each one facing north, south, east and west, and each view is different, in a sense you have 4 sets in one, even if you want to call it one. So the advice you are giving here is build it all, keep what you want and throw away the rest? How is that efficient in any way. In a pro environment you would be fired for this.
2) Reguarding your second advice. And I quote: "Anyway, your system will tell you when you've reached your maximum."
Seriously? are you advicing to create a set until your computer tells you no more? what about the rest of the movie.
ok your turn, I'm really looking forward to this. In a good way. I respect you as a person and an artist, and I value your comments.
Thank you,
Stuckon3d
PS: Luth, sorry for stealing your thread this way, but believe or not this will be very educational. ;)
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By DELETED2 - 17 Years Ago
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Whatever! :P
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By animagic - 17 Years Ago
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luthien39 (11/3/2009) I successfully created a sword in Sketchup and got it into IC and attached to my character's hand! I'm really excited about that sword. ;) Now if I could only figure out how to make it look shiny or reflective like a real sword...I tried changing the reflectivity but it didn't seem to do anything. While the battle of the great minds is raging [:w00t: :crazy:] I thought I would chime in and answer this bit. To make things look shiny try playing with the Glossiness and Specular settings. It works pretty good. The Reflection setting is used for mirrors and glass primarily. Speaking of glass, to make something more transparent (such as a window) change the Opacity to less than 100. Somewhat related to what the two gentlemen were discussing, in a film I am currently working on some scenes take place in a penthouse with several rooms. I have the furnishings as separate objects and only the rooms that are actually in a scene are furnished. Due to needed detail, furniture and other objects can be quite expensive in terms of polygons. I use a lot from 3D Warehouse and in the case of an interior that is already furnished, I export the items in the room separately. That way they can be reused and also be rearranged to suit the need of the scene. I agree with the idea of having a separate project for each scene. I find that as my skills improve, that I sometimes revisit scenes I did earlier. Now I only have to rerender those scenes, not the whole movie. I use Vegas to put it all together.
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By aknzrdude - 17 Years Ago
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great discussion on techniques
- as for me - it depends on my shot - for establishing shot, i only build what my camera captures - like the city of Barasai shot below, i used the camera to slowly pan left to right, perhaps 10 seconds, long enough to convey that that is where our characters are - go beyond the walls and it is just an empty lot
now to show the inside of the city, i have separate projects for each section, a separate market scene, center of town etc..
the reason i do this is so i have enough compute resources to add more people in the scene, have them animated. typically i can get 12-14 clone cloth based actors in my scene before my system, starts slowing down and i have a pretty robust core i7 system
now the beauty of being able to import video is you can now render certain elements of your scene as video, import the video for use as background which let's you add more detail to your scene

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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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aknzrdude (11/4/2009) great discussion on techniques
- as for me - it depends on my shot - for establishing shot, i only build what my camera captures - like the city of Barasai shot below, i used the camera to slowly pan left to right, perhaps 10 seconds, long enough to convey that that is where our characters are - go beyond the walls and it is just an empty lot
now to show the inside of the city, i have separate projects for each section, a separate market scene, center of town etc..
the reason i do this is so i have enough compute resources to add more people in the scene, have them animated. typically i can get 12-14 clone cloth based actors in my scene before my system, starts slowing down and i have a pretty robust core i7 system
now the beauty of being able to import video is you can now render certain elements of your scene as video, import the video for use as background which let's you add more detail to your scene
Thanks Gabe, that is exactly the point i was trying to make. The key is to look at the big picture, set dress the scene to enhance your story and keep it moving forward, and remembering that characters and motions take up a lot of ram, so you need to leave some room for them as well. Rendering background elements and bringing them back as video to take less ram is also a great way to optimize a scene. Good point gabe. Another good trick for optimazing is, once you are done with the set, and it turns out to be heavy no matter what you do, you could replace heavy geometry with simple 3d blocks. Animate your characters, and them bring the heavy items back.
Hope this helps Icloners out there,
Stuckon3d
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By DELETED2 - 17 Years Ago
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aknzrdude (11/4/2009)
great discussion on techniques  Hi people..... Firstly, HOLY BADGERS WHISKERS.... :w00t: aknzrdude, I like this..... I would put a candle on the heffa, not good to find those down a narrow alley. :P Well, Ive been bogged in with Forum header Movie stuff and really I want to crack on with my Short now rendering the sets.... BUT.... I have a moment free time now..... after playing with snow. :D Set Building... "Regarding Sets and multiple sets in one scene, I HAVE done this. But as follows. I make forest or woodland scenes. I make the North, South, East and West view totally different and simply save this as a template if you liike." Misinterpetation was perhaps too loose a term on my part as I didnt fully explain the volume of the environment I would do this within. Here is the procedure I use many times.
Take one land mass. Edge design each of the four faces. In my case pretty much woodlands and forestry. Instead of having four sets I CAN make one scene work as four. The payoff of this is that many other elements are easily draggable into the "current" shot from the surrounds (As trees dont duplicate on CTRL click yet) but moreover by making four "sets" (sets in so far as 'working environments for the characters LESS the characters) I personally DONT have to wait for one set to close down as I open another blank set to clear ram BEFORE opening another chunky set.
For me on this machine with 2x2 gigs of nVidea ram on two cards and 4 gigs onboard I stuff it as full of trees as I can before I watch the memory manager start to choke on swapfile borderline. When I open and close a set I can sometimes wait up to 40 seconds to over a minute or so for a good three gig set to open. Also some sets crash and thats a full 2 minute crash report and memory dump issue WITH a reboot and blue screen if it hits me hard enough. (Just love those olden days dossy blue screens!!!) Flicking in one and out to another can rake up the hours. So, my solutionwas, expand the land masses. Make a four viewpoint landmass. And work inside that. IN PRACTICE!!!! Using this system means I dont wait for file opena nd close. It also means I can sit back and wait while memory management cuts in and frees up say 300 megs free into a stonking 1.5 gigs free ram as it plays with the mass. Now I can work, not always, but mostly, in at least three arenas on one board. I add characters as I need them, play with lights as I need them and simply work un stalled by open/close timelags.
This should work for anyone who uses alot of kit in their scenes and wants to skip set switching when theyre working hard. For me, I can sit down here and commercially work for anything up to twelve hours in a stint. If I can cut down three or four set changes an hour I can save almost an hour in a day. That might sound tight, but believe me, some sets I put together suck the clock dry.
Currently I am working thin on my MCPE... but I hope this explains where I was coming from.
It isnt practical in all cases as sometimes you need to shoot long and compress the elements and the lenses in iClone work exactly as they do in real life. And if you cant back up far enough because of another quarter set, youre stuffed. ... but working tight, it IS effective. Armstrong.
2) Reguarding your second advice. And I quote: "Anyway, your system will tell you when you've reached your maximum." Seriously? are you advicing to create a set until your computer tells you no more? what about the rest of the movie.
OH Yes. Stuff it full. Pile it high! Stick in everything you need. If theres room! Else, go as FAR as you can. If you DONT, someone else will. And if you DONT someone else will deliver a more impressive set than yours and win the box office basically. Wheres the beenfit of that. Play hard, study long, deliver best. Memory Managers like CACHEMAN will take your system and shunt the mass about until it frees up alot of Ram again. But in the mean time, YES. Dont play easy safe. Wheres the excitement in that. Wheres the sense of achievement by making sure youre working nice and fast because a gig of ram is free or you couldnt wait a few seconds to pan round the set!!!!!! You HAVE to work hard and tear your hair out or you'll deliver dilute. I work all out or nothing. The fans on the cards cut in and start whining and all Im doing is panning round with the camera. Theres SO MUCH STUFF sometimes they complain and whine like tiny jet engines. :D Theyre my lil early warning that I am getting close to the limit. HAH! Of COURSE leave enough for your characters... :P But if they take, say, 1 gig and youre on a three gig system.... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You know your playing field size. I COULD turn shadows down, I COULD work Vertex instead of Pixel, i COULD hide a load of kit on set.... but in all honesty!!!!!????? I absolutely LOVE the way it looks on a 24 inch flatscreen monitor and it really inspires me to see this amazing Disney World on my desktop... it really makes my heart sing. It IS amazing. I remember in 1994 wondering If I would live long enough to see this happen.  Walt Disney would be absolutely blown away!
Long post BUT................................................................ I use short words!!! :P
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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Armstrong (11/5/2009) [quote] great discussion on techniques
Well, Ive been bogged in with Forum header Movie stuff and really I want to crack on with my Short now rendering the sets.... BUT.... I have a moment free time now..... after playing with snow. :D
Set Building... "Regarding Sets and multiple sets in one scene, I HAVE done this. But as follows. I make forest or woodland scenes. I make the North, South, East and West view totally different and simply save this as a template if you liike." Misinterpetation was perhapstoo loose aterm on my part as I didnt fully explain the volume of the environment I would do this within. Here is the procedure I use many times.
Take one land mass. Edge design each of the four faces. In my case pretty much woodlands and forestry. Instead of having four sets I CAN make one scene work as four. The payoff of this is that many other elements are easily draggable into the "current" shot from the surrounds (As trees dont duplicate on CTRL click yet) but moreover by making four "sets" (sets in so far as 'working environments for the characters LESS the characters) I personally DONT have to wait for one set to close down as I open another blank set to clear ram BEFORE opening another chunky set.
For me on this machine with 2x2 gigs of nVidea ram on two cards and 4 gigs onboard I stuff it as full of trees as I can before I watch the memory manager start to choke on swapfile borderline.
When I open and close a set I can sometimes wait up to 40 seconds to over a minuteor so for a good three gig set to open. Also some sets crash and thats a full 2 minute crash report and memory dump issue WITH a reboot and blue screen if it hits me hard enough. (Just love those olden days dossy blue screens!!!)
Flicking in one and out to another can rake up the hours. So, my solutionwas, expand the land masses. Make a four viewpoint landmass. And work inside that.
IN PRACTICE!!!! Using this system means I dont wait for file opena nd close. It also means I can sit back and wait while memory management cuts in and frees up say 300 megs free into a stonking 1.5 gigs free ram as it plays with the mass. Now I can work, not always, but mostly, in at least three arenas on one board. I add characters as I need them, play with lights as I need them and simply work un stalled by open/close timelags.
This should work for anyone who uses alot of kit in their scenes and wants to skip set switching when theyre working hard. For me, I can sit down here and commercially work for anything up to twelve hours in a stint. If I can cut down three or four set changes an hour I can save almost an hour in a day. That might sound tight, but believe me, some sets I put together suck the clock dry.
Currently I am working thin on my MCPE... but I hope this explains where I was coming from.
It isnt practical in all cases as sometimes you need to shoot long and compress the elements and the lenses in iClone work exactly as they do in real life. And if you cant back up far enough because of another quarter set, youre stuffed. ... but working tight, it IS effective.
Armstrong.
2) Reguarding your second advice. And I quote: "Anyway, your system will tell you when you've reached your maximum." Seriously? are you advicing to create a set until your computer tells you no more? what about the rest of the movie.
OH Yes. Stuff it full. Pile it high! Stick in everything you need. If theres room! Else, go as FAR as you can. If you DONT, someone else will. And if you DONT someone else will deliver a more impressive set than yours and win the box office basically. Wheres the beenfit of that. Play hard, study long, deliver best. Memory Managers like CACHEMAN will take your system and shunt the mass about until it frees up alot of Ram again. But in the mean time, YES. Dont play easy safe. Wheres the excitement in that. Wheres the sense of achievement by making sure youre working nice and fast because a gig of ram is free or you couldnt wait a few seconds to pan round the set!!!!!! You HAVE to work hard and tear your hair out or you'll deliver dilute. I work all out or nothing. The fans on the cards cut in and start whining and all Im doing is panning round with the camera. Theres SO MUCH STUFF sometimes they complain and whine like tiny jet engines. :D Theyre my lil early warning that I am getting close to the limit. HAH! Of COURSE leave enough for your characters... :P But if they take, say, 1 gig and youre on a three gig system.... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You know your playing field size.
Long post BUT................................................................ I use short words!!! :P
Woow with a system like yours I can see why you would put so much into one scene, however for us mere mortals, the specs are much lower and optimizing is a must. Also you mention your scene take 40 seconds to load? Well if you would have optimized it, it would take 10 at the most, maybe less. I get what you are saying but when you are giving advice to new users, you have to think about the average iclone user, and most of them have one video card with 512mb to 1 gig of ram on the card and 2 to 6gigs of system memory, that is why I'm trying to stress that efficiency is essential in order to gain performace and actually get things done in iclone.
Reguarding your take on jamming stuff in, I'm a true believer that less is more if you know what you are doing, by having the right composition in your scene, you can simulate huge worlds without having to put what a real huge world would require. Putting everything you got (as far as models you have available) in a scene it will just make it look too busy and make your audience loose perspective of what the story is all about. Bottom line for me is: " keep it simple" , and do not make your backgrounds compete with your character.
This image the perfect example of simplicity describing infinite space. And with what, six or seven pieces of geometry? See what I mean.

Peace, stuckon3d
PS: reguarding your image of the naked chicks, I think Disney woud have a huge lawsuit in his hands if he displayed that to kids. :P
you are it! :P
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By DELETED2 - 17 Years Ago
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Stuff it full. Pile it high! Stick in everything you need in your sets. If theres room! Else, go as FAR as you can.
If you DONT, someone else will. If you DONT someone else will deliver a more impressive set than yours and win the box office. Wheres the benefit of that.
You HAVE to work hard and tear your hair out or you'll deliver dilute.
I COULD turn shadows down, I COULD work Vertex instead of Pixel, i COULD hide a load of kit on set.... but in all honesty...... "I absolutely LOVE the way it looks on a 24 inch flatscreen monitor and it really inspires me to see this amazing Disney World on my desktop."
 The "Naked Butt" drawled argument goes alllll the way back to the beginings of iClone and my Original Logo in 2005. You'll have to take Naked Butts up with Reallusion not me, theyre the bigger authority with their Naked butt Logo. (Their Butts bigger than mine. Hah!)
But in my Logo the Characters are dressed as in this scene. Thier clothing is scant, bathing costume scant, but it suits the purpose of the story. (That's a "Young Lady" on the left but that's a "Young Man" on the right, (Ahem!) No Boobs!!! Stubbly chin!!! Your social circles sound scary.) :D
Remember also that Walt Disney had lawsuit after lawsuit for pushing the boundaries and... if we remember in the begining EVERYONE was against him for spending SO MUCH MONEY and TIME on making a "Riddiculous Cartoon into a full length Movie. " He was mocked and scoffed for chasing the future. Like Niepce, like Daguerre, like Talbot and so on.NOTE! Newcomers must realise that iClone is NOT as memory hungry as posts may imply. One of the beauties of iClone is that it is UNdemanding and my purpose working hard with iClone is not simply to make money but to display the Maximum output from using 100% iClone only products as best I can n the most ultimately beautiful alternative environments possible. No imports. No conversion. No sketchups. No Poser Converters. No 3DXchange. Simply 100% (99.9999999%) home grown Reallusion iClone products in an attempt to disolve the visual myth that it's just a shell awaiting mass external expense of props and accessories. They're there. But not the be all and end all. This also assists those who work hard to earn Affiliate reward from promoting Reallusion from similar advantageously oriented promotion styles as mine. end:
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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Well there goes the adult conversation.... Shouting is the best you can do? I'm soo dissapointed, anyhow... since I believe my point about effeciency has been made clear, there is nothing else to talk about here. As far as i'm concern this conversation is over.
I really wish you the best of luck in your career,
Stuckon3d
PS: sorry to burst your bubble but reallusion content is 100% imported and converted from other 3d packages, like 3d MAX. The great thing about their content is that they "optimize" them for you so that you can stuff your scene up. :cool:
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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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*whistles*
Well, I'm going to stay out of the, err, energetic discussion...;) All I will say is wow, you guys have done some beautiful stuff. It's really inspiring! And I was so proud of my little set with the sword and cottage I built! I'm amazed at the spectacular effects possible, and I can't wait to figure out how to make them!
I'm having a problem with making my dude walk. I have the "river forde" terrain loaded and my cottage and guy are up on the hillside. I was trying to follow the tutorial to make a path, and my guy walks towards it, but about halfway in he disappears (either flying way up in the air or falling through the ground). How do you enforce gravity or electomagnetic force in the IC universe? I've run into a similar sort of problem on a couple other occasions...if I toggle "collision" on an object, it still seems to want to go through other objects (like trying to hang a curtain inside a window, the edges blow through the sides of the walls). Is there something I'm missing?
Here's a shot from my little project...not that it's anything spectacular! :P (Whenever I try to put a texture on an object in Sketchup, it cuts it in half and puts the bottom half at the top, so there's a weird line in the middle. I don't know how to make it stop. *grumble*)
Thanks for the inspiration and the information...though I wish I could load up a scene I think I'll stick with optimizing them, given my puny computer!
~Luth
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By animagic - 17 Years Ago
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If the discussion shows one thing, it is that there are different ways, which is good... I'm lazy, but I'm a pretty good searcher (say, scavenger), so I like to use other people's stuff if it looks good and serves my purpose. If needed I can build my own sets, such as the penthouse I was talking about (which was done in TurboFloorplan and then converted). But I do try to develop a unique look for my film and there are various ways to do that. In this forum, we have seen everything from a cartoon-look to the highest detail, which says a lot about the versatility of the program. In the end, it's the story that matters. Pixar looks great, I think; I recently watched a few films I hadn't seen before, but without a strong story it would just be eye-candy. So I know that there are films out there that look better than mine in a way, but what would be the point of imitating Pixar, or anybody else for that matter? It's already past my bedtime, so I don't know if I make any sense... But my advise to newcomers would be to start simple and build on that. And don't forget to have fun and also don't forget to learn about film-making. That is, use of camera, lighting, and editing. Also, besides your visuals, you have sound and music at your disposal to tell your story.
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By Luthien - 17 Years Ago
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Just wanted to let y'all know I figured out the floating/falling character problem! Still not sure about actors walking *through* blades of grass or curtains blowing through wood, but I'll work on it...
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By stuckon3d - 17 Years Ago
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Luthien (11/7/2009) Just wanted to let y'all know I figured out the floating/falling character problem! Still not sure about actors walking *through* blades of grass or curtains blowing through wood, but I'll work on it...
Great Luth, Glad you did, finding things out by yourself is a great learning tool, but if something takes you more than a day, don't be shy to ask. There are plenty of people in this forum willing to help, even if they don't agree on the solutions. ;)
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