Holy S%^&....those are some amazing animations!
The Live Face looks great.

Disclaimer:
I am now myself setting up and testing the iPhone X myself with Live Face.

1) You MUST put a port # (ie ":999") after your phone's IP Address shown in the Live App when you enter it into iClone's Motion Live 'Connection' address.
They do this in the video, but pretty nonchalantly, without explaining it is in fact MANDATORY.  You need it otherwise you get an error, and nothing will say "HEY YOU-- Input a Port # after the IP Address, like ":999" " 

2) There is no hardware USB 'cable' connection in case anyone got that impression.  It is a wireless 'USB-hotspot' off your phone's data signal they are referring to.  
So, a wireless connection is always what is required, and, you are not getting faster data through a hardwire USB connection if case you may have imagined that.  
Meaning, if your phone has no signal, in the location you are in, to generate a good Hotspot for your PC to connect to, you can't do this.  It is USB 'tethering', not USB cord.

3) You need a seriously good Wifi connection where you are, otherwise data drops like crazy....very tattered.  
I am still trying different things, but this is a serious barrier if your Wifi is modest where you have your PC.

4) The iPhone X gets very hot and drains battery quicker when using Live Face.
   

After further testing, in general, I am finding Live Face is more accurate and stable than Faceware.
I am with KelleyToons in imagining using Live Face more than Faceware 

Live Face is dependent on a wireless signal.  Weaker/Stronger signal = Weaker/Stronger FPS and accuracy from cam to iClone 
Faceware is dependent on lighting.  Weaker/Stronger lighting =  Weaker/Stronger FPS and accuracy from cam to iClone

Should all the highest ability be achieved, from what I see I would imagine LiveFace has the better tracking. 

I do no more use faceware. I've changed my PC and the license transferring is just complicated, face live is far more effective


     

Tony,

I think you're wrong about USB -- while the manual instructions are crazy stupid, you CAN connect via USB without a hotspot (I did it at least a couple of times).  It seems to imply you need to use a hotspot, but after I tried it once with it I just never did it and it worked fine.  Now, I've never had a trouble with wi-fi in my house (where I do this) so I stopped doing it that way but if you'd like I can go over it again to show you (again, I have done it without the hotspot enabled -- but I didn't see any improvements).

Also -- never saw any data issues.  Again, I have excellent wi-fi in my house (and not particularly well set up -- I don't have a mesh network, for example, just a decent router I paid less than $200 for).  I can't imagine anyone who has a router built in the last five years who couldn't get this kind of coverage (I was very concerned initially about my router for my PN suit -- but after trying it I found it covers even out in the garage and our lanai.  We don't have a huge house, all single floor, but it is around 2400 square feet inside, and more outside and in the garage).

My own disclaimer is that when I'm doing this I'm the only one in the house using wi-fi (my wife has a wired connection).  If people are sharing their wi-fi that might be a problem.  Also, I have yet to try this with the PN at the same time (if all goes well I'll try this this week).  That might cause issues but up until now I've always captured separately so we'll see how that goes.

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Alienware Aurora R12, Win 10, i9-119000KF, 3.5GHz CPU, 128GB RAM, RTX 3090 (24GB), Samsung 960 Pro 4TB M-2 SSD, TB+ Disk space
Mike "ex-genius" Kelley

KT - I think you still had a Wifi connection, just coincidentally physically while your phone was connected to the PC, and your phone was charging. 
In other words, just by mere fact that there is the USB wire plugged from the phone to the PC didn't auto-generate or initialize some connection.  It was still WiFi.

Think - there would be no need to enter an IP address if it was a USB hardware connection, but it still asks you to set up one.  In other words, in the IP port area in the Face Live iClone settings, it does not then switch to, say, something like "USB Connection", or "wired".  You are still going through WiFi. 

But how about this.  Because I can already imagine you saying, "Well, I had it working..."
So, I am interested, with what you say, if you could accomplish this:
Try turning off WiFi while your phone is plugged in, and tell me how you get it to work, (because I did try that)
(1) turn off phone cellular
(2) turn off phone WiFi
(3) plug in phone to PC
In this case the phone does, yes, generate an address with less #'s, but this address is never detected as working in the iClone settings when you type it in. 
And so, I thought "maybe you need a port #?"... But, what port # would you use for a true USB hardwire connection.
Likewise, in the In the iPhone app itself, it does not say, 'wired USB connection", or something to that effect, which would indicate that strict hardware connection...

Better yet, point to an RL document that details how to specifically use a hardwire non-wireless connection.  Because, I do not see any documents posted by RL that directly point to a hardwire USB connection.  They only speak of a wireless USB connection (which is not what I was referring to.) 
They are using "USB" to mean a 'non-WiFi' wireless connection.  It actually is another way of saying HotSpot tethering.

I am not saying it is your responsibility to educate me or correct me, but if you have a technical list of steps, then please tell us, because then you are aware of something that is not listed in the RL documentation (setting up a non-wireless/non-WiFi signal/non-USB tethered hotspot signal, which is **strictly** hardware USB connected only.)

I had wi-fi off on my phone when I did it -- so that's for sure.

But when I get the time I'll see if I can do it again -- just am WAY too busy at the moment.

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Alienware Aurora R12, Win 10, i9-119000KF, 3.5GHz CPU, 128GB RAM, RTX 3090 (24GB), Samsung 960 Pro 4TB M-2 SSD, TB+ Disk space
Mike "ex-genius" Kelley

KT - you were using a Phone signal then, with phone as a tethering hotspot. 
So in effect, the cord was just serving as a charger.   
The USB cord was not transmitting data, it was the hotspot signal from your phone's Network (ie TMobile, Sprint, AT&T, Verizon, etc...) 

PS - I am not busy at all. 

No offense, Tony, but you don't understand hardware, do you?

Some folks just don't.  But in any case, no, my phone was NOT transmitting data from my phone carrier to my computer (boy do I wish -- then I could do it remotely from across the nation).  My carrier at the time did NOT support hotspots, I could barely get a signal inside my house, let alone at my computer, and I specifically did not have hotspots turned on (nor did it work until I hooked it up via USB).

But... you have lots of time, so YOU can find out how.

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Alienware Aurora R12, Win 10, i9-119000KF, 3.5GHz CPU, 128GB RAM, RTX 3090 (24GB), Samsung 960 Pro 4TB M-2 SSD, TB+ Disk space
Mike "ex-genius" Kelley

Give the expense of FaceWare I'm disappointed that RL hasn't been more aggressive to get this sorted out.

The responsibility shouldn't all be on the individual users, who have very little clout.

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